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08

Mar

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Chris with Selim Sesler at Badehane in Asmalımescit, IstanbulThis is Selim Sesler. He’s the local Clarinet god who I first saw in the documentary, “Crossing the Bridge” which features a lot of different artists from various genres throughout Istanbul. Selim plays every Wednesday at Badehane, a smaller cafe/bar tucked away in the Asmalımescit area south of Taksim Square. He also plays at a livelier place in Araf, in Taksim, every Tuesday! So stoked to be able to see such an amazing performer, TWICE a week if I wanted to! Selim, you rule! Not sure what song they’re playing here, but the song they change into I recognize as “Ah Azeyn” from the UCSB Middle East Ensemble. There is a Turkish version with Turkish words which I do not know, however. Anyhow, enjoy. I faded in and out from a longer file I recorded, because they don’t really end songs, they just run from one right into the next like the badasses they are. :) Cheers!

02

Mar

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Istiklal Ave in Istanbul, Turkey

Above is a shot of the beginning of Istiklal Ave., from the end of Taksim Square in Istanbul, Turkey. This is where Laurel and I most often busk. There are plenty of buskers to be found here—from men in their 50’s playing saz to support the education of their children, to younger Turks with guitars singing Pink Floyd. Also you’ll catch a Laz Turkish musician playing kemançe, a type of fiddle. The recording here is of a kemançe, but I can’t say one way or another if it’s Laz. I was walking down Taksim and heard the busker in the distance and turned on my portable recorder. You can hear as I approach and the music gets louder, as well as the digital interference coming and going from the cellphones in people’s pockets. I stood there for a bit before walking off to get some food around the corner. The man had his fiddle hooked up to an amp with plenty of reverb, which added a nice effect to a street whose throngs of people usually dampen and mute an acoustic instrument into oblivion. Enjoy!

21

Feb

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This is the sound of the çeng.  It’s a Turkish harp. Lau and I went to a free concert (one of the many hundreds of events which were part of Istanbul’s “European Culture Capital 2010”) celebrating a 400 year anniversary of Ali Ufki, a curious Polish fellow who was the first to make western style notation of Turkish music. The guy has a crazy story—kidnapped by Crimean Tatars, followed by mastering 16 languages. Check him out. The concert utilized some instruments familiar (oud, saz, keman, darbuka, etc), but some new ones, like this çeng, along with a pan flute type instrument whose name escapes me. I’ll be posting more full songs from this concert in coming weeks.

15

Feb

Settling in Turkey

Here comes da metroHey you guys, it’s Laurel!

Traveling for the last seven months has been amazing. It is hard to believe all of the people I have met and situations I have been put in and gone through. The real crazy thing now is settling in a new country for a few months—Turkey. It’s great to be immersed in a different culture and try to discover who I am in this different culture.

I think it’s important to have these experiences because it really shows you who you are. Being put in a different environment, you can see all the things that have changed from who you were and some habits and patterns that are the same. This is horrifying and nice at the same time, because you come face to face with things you love about yourself and you have now dropped habits that were caused by your environment. But then, there are those habits that you dont like, that are still there, and unfortunately they’ll be harder to change.

shot of TaksimSince traveling, we’ve been go-go-going and I haven’t stopped to look at who I am, which is what I plan on working on while I am here. I want to meditate, be introspective, eat healthy, learn more Turkish, be more involved in community and events and stop getting sick!

One hard part about being here has been the nightlife, because going out with friends can mean being up really late. But then there are responsibilities in the morning. Sometimes I feel like I am on vacation but at the same time, I have things to do and I’m settling down a bit…it’s weird. Either way, it’s great. I’m having an amazing time and I am happy I am able to do what I have done, to see what I have seen and to continue on this crazy journey we call life. I feel really lucky and everyday when I walk down the streets of Istanbul, I am reminded of that!

Peace!

08

Feb

Mexican art in Istanbul

Literally right across the street from our apartment, a woman is painting a large image of a Mexican revolutionary… How awesome is that? I also saw a finished painting of a Mexican woman on a horse, and a smaller piece off to the side of La Virgen. I almost wanted to take a picture from my door but that seems a bit creepy. Maybe I’ll meet here someday soon. —chris

07

Feb

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This is another killer piece I grabbed from the Nedim & Neshko concert at Haymatlos.. enjoy!

06

Feb

this is my symbol for humanity. what you see above the pavement is just a distraction. we are the flower. i love that this artist depicted this in the very place i’m currently living. even if the human spirit fails to live up to this symbol, i still take comfort in the fact that the daisy might live far & long after the human..
we are the expanding soul breaking through the concrete grid; we are the dandelion seed blown through the air—as a wish, or a kick by a random pedestrian. long live the sprout breaking through, against all odds.

this is my symbol for humanity. what you see above the pavement is just a distraction. we are the flower. i love that this artist depicted this in the very place i’m currently living. even if the human spirit fails to live up to this symbol, i still take comfort in the fact that the daisy might live far & long after the human..

we are the expanding soul breaking through the concrete grid; we are the dandelion seed blown through the air—as a wish, or a kick by a random pedestrian. long live the sprout breaking through, against all odds.

Yes! Yes! Yes! I asked homeslice if I could get a Super Bowl discount on it so I could make tasty dolma snax for my partay but he didn’t know what the effff i was talking bout. I’m steady working on my Turkish, but I just didn’t have enough to cut it.

(JK, it was actually 5 lira.. 3 bucks n some change. And I’m not having any superbowl party heh :)

02

Feb

So we kept seeing these bands go by attached to the “nostaljik tram”  (oldschool tram that still runs throgh Istiklal st. in Taksim, Istanbul).. after a few sightings, we realized that most if not all were just elaborate Turkcell advertisements.

The other part of this story is that we’d been busking on Istiklal for the past few weeks, couple times a week, and we’d been shut down 3 or 4 times by civil police (they dress like normal folks), each time getting varied reasons why. Ultimately, one said, “no darbuka. problem” so we’ve chalked it up to the drum being the reason. Noise. As if it could even penetrate through the crowd noise of thousands of people walking by every few minutes. Anywayyyyzzz.

30

Jan

Been in Istanbul for one month now…

pomegranate juice for $1.20 aint no jokeHey all! Chris here. Been in Istanbul for one month now. Three months ago, I’d have had no idea I would be posting up here in a flat of our own, with a job, ready to spend winter and spring.

The city definitely has a magnetic vibe about it, or like a quick moving current which has pulled me in (and it’s not just the cheap pomegranate juice I’m sipping on in this picture). I love it here! I’ve never lived in a big city, and now I’m in one of the world’s top five; I’m blown away. It’s also been a major change of pace since traveling for the last 6 months, moving from city to city (or sometimes, country to country) in a week or less, occasionally stopping for longer periods here and there (to WWOOF, for instance). Now we’re settled and have a space of our own for the first time in half a year, and it feels quite nice.


cheap veg is keyI’ve been catching up on all the cooking I was used to doing in California. Sure, I’ve cooked here and there at some hosts’ places, or while WWOOFing. But to be able to stock up on ingredients and shop more extensively at local markets is where it’s at. I’ve been trying here and there to reproduce the tastes I have experienced in not just Turkey, but Egypt and everywhere inbetween; however, the abundance of certain ingredients (like around 50 cents a pound for tomatos, eggplants and other foods common in Turkish foods) has imparted a nearly inevitable local flavor onto the foods I’ve been cooking up. And chiles are cheap too, thank the universe.


Musically, I’ve been working my way into different scenes as time goes on. My landlord introduced me to a kind spot which seems open to artists and musicians alike—a jam space in Cihangir with 2 stereo overhead mic’s to record, amps, a keyboard, guitars; in front, all sorts of pottery made by one of the guys who lives above the place; lots of painted art around as well. Got invited to maybe play bass with a group there.

Also found another place, Kooperatif, which has weekly jams. One day is middle eastern & balkan jams, and the other is musique concret, a type of experimental avant garde improvisation of French origins.

Then of course there is the busking side of things. Lau and I have run into various opportunities musically while busking (though most have fallen through, like playing paid gigs at one girl’s mom’s new balkan restaurant). Otherwise, I’ve gotten to participate in a Colombian photographer’s photography book of tango shots, with me on the margins of a set of shots with a local tango teacher and student in the focus. We’ve met different kind folks and exchanged smiles with thousands while playing on the streets of Istanbul. The man below was a friendly Armenian dude who recognized the couple of Armenian pieces I picked up from the UCSB Middle East Ensemble. Awesome.

this Armenian gentleman was stoked to hear our renditions of Seghan e Arad & Tamzara

One more recent musical development is a woman who is putting together a theater show of shorts, one acts, monologues & comedic musical bits based around the theme of love & expat life in Istanbul. I have volunteered my musical services for the performace in April. Should be fun.


Another friend is helping do music for a children’s Turkish adaptation of Rapunzel! One of the awesome things about such a big city, I’m finding, is how much crazy, diverse and awesome stuff is going down everywhere, all the time. I think I’ll plan a little parade through Taksim sometime. We’ll see.

nostalgic tram that runs down Istiklal

24

Jan

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flyer from the performance

Last week I had the good fortune to stumble into these guys. I originally wanted to go that night to see a group called “The Balkan Messengers.” Days later, I re-checked the site and “Nedim Nalbantoğlu & Neshko Neshev” were listed. I was considerably less excited, because the gig had switched from a whole band to a duo. Nevertheless I made my way to the venue, Haymatlos, after coming late to the weekly jam at another cool spot, Kooperatif. “Everybody’s at Haymatlos,” they told me.

So here we are. Epic Turkish/Jazz/Balkan/Insane fusions on violin and accordion. I’m pretty sure this is some of the most awesome music I’ve heard in my life. Hope you enjoy. I’ll post more in coming weeks.

10

Jan

Beyoğlu stencils part I: these are stencils I’ve captured over the course of the last few weeks .. this first series is a more or less random collection. Future stencils to be featured will focus on some of the feminist/labor/political stencils I am working on getting translated & contextualized. Stay tuned!

03

Jan

Saw this duck-goose hybrid while on a tour in Cappadocia. I looked it up and this hybridization seems somewhat rare, but not too sure how rare. This guck was as large as a goose but had the beautiful coloration of a duck. Good times!

Saw this duck-goose hybrid while on a tour in Cappadocia. I looked it up and this hybridization seems somewhat rare, but not too sure how rare. This guck was as large as a goose but had the beautiful coloration of a duck. Good times!

29

Dec

“My name is Azizah”

Whatup folks! Chris here. İt’s been a good whıle sınce any storıes so I thought I’d share a lıttle buskıng story. Quıck update before that: we are currently on the ısland of Büyükada, the largest of the Prınces’ İslands (Prens Adaları) off the coast of Istanbul. LOVING ıt! No motorızed vehıcles allowed (except utılıty vehıcles, ambulances, etc…) and somethıng lıke 6 square km bıg. A bıt of a releıf from the excıtement and busıness of Istanbul, where we’ve been couchsurfıng for about two weeks. Anyhow, hope to get some Istanbul and Cappadocıa pıctures up soon on flıckr, though ın the meantıme there are some fresh ones from England up. Anyhow, on wıth the brıef story on busking in Istanbul.

not from the same nıght as thıs story, but ıt was stıll a good tıme

We’re busking for our 3rd time ever in Istanbul. Busking had been good, so far. The first time we busked, we made almost 30 lira ($20 USD) for around 80 minutes of playing under an overhang, in the rain on Istiklal (one of the main pedestrian areas and shopping/tourist zones of Istanbul). So here we are, about an hour before sun down, on an overcast but dry afternoon in December, again on Istiklal. Before we even started playing, someone threw some change in the bowl, “for good luck,” I assumed is what he said in Turkish. After about 5 minutes of playing, a young woman drops a 5 lira note in the bowl. (That’s about $3.50!) We’re on fiyah! We keep playing, but a plain clothes officer with a walkie-talkie tells us that playing there is a problem. We take a hike, but ask an officer in a car on the way if it’s a problem. “No, no problem,” he replies. So we confidently begin playing in a new spot around quarter mile down on Istiklal.

We begin the set from the beginning, starting with Azizah, a pretty well known Arabic piece (I think it’s popular for belly dancing). A woman comes up, excitedly listening. After a few minutes, she says, “I am Azizah!” along with many utterances in Turkish which I try my hardest to tell her I can not understand. “Adınız Azizah?” I say (I think that means “Your name is Azizah?). She shakes her head enthusiastically. So we’re playing HER song! She drops us a 10 lira note (almost $7 USD!) and sticks around for another song before bidding us adieu. Awesomeness! Shortly after another, officer tells us to stop, and we give up for the day. We chalk it up as a major win. We had good times and positive feedback from many passers by. And to top it off, we made around 20 lira in about 20 minutes of playing. Success!

Homıe wıth the uke ıs Jordan. A fellow couchsurfer we met from L.A.!

14

Dec

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Grabbed this recording of mid day ezan (Islamic call to prayer) from our 3rd story hotel room in the Sultanahmet area of Istanbul. Beautiful! Also, for those who’ve been to Egypt, it illustrates the striking contrast in the call to prayer between the two largely Muslim states—mainly, that Egypt’s call is melodically simpler, though still quite beautiful.